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Frank Helmschrott
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I guess I won't have the time to try this Titan Aero thing out quickly but I was nosey if it could work so I fired up Fusion360 quickly this morning and gave it a quick sit.

Looks like it could work to put the motor above the lower rod but only barely enough. I need to check if I could get the bed up high enough. Also everything is quite tight. I also wanted to give the BLTouch Sensor a test on this so this would need some room. Will definitely kill some x/y movement compared to my last carriage but definitely win some mm in Z.

I merged both in the last picture to give some impression of size. Of course the cooling fans are missing on both.
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09.04.17
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Kinda like christmas today :) What also arrived today was my Titan Aero from E3D Online. The motors from OMC-Steppersonline already came a few days ago. The one I ordered (http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-bipolar-step-motor-29v-07a-18ncm255ozin-17hs100704s-p-260.html) actually only weigs in at 145g and not 180g as advertised. The Titan Aero comes at around 255g which makes this a 300g direct extruder.

Hope I can find the time to design a carriage and test this out.
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After 3 weeks of waiting I received my SDP/SI order today (they shipped after around 8-10 days, the remaining time went into shipping and customs clearance). Quite an expensive stunt. Their intl. shipping is expensive, given the small package and weight so i paid a little under $100 for everything including import tax. I ordered 10 x 10mm and 6 x 8mm to have a few in spare.

After a first test on some spare rods I'm impressed to see that their tolerance is around the same as with the IGUS that I use on the carriage (can only say for the 8mm of course). They seem to be as sensible to misalignment as the chinese graphite bushings but have the self aligning outer ring of course.

If this wasn't soo much work and I had so little time I'd really like to see a 1by1 comparison between the SDP/SI and the Igus. They do cost about the same (though at least in Germany as Igus is german, they are cheaper and easier to source)

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Has anyone yet tried a 3mm bowden on the Eusthatios? I wonder what it's like? Pros and Cons?

I do have a 3mm E3D bowden here and also the Bondtech QR in 3mm from a stil-to-be-done printer project. My Carriage would make it relatively easy to swap the 1.75mm to a 3mm I just wonder what you guys think before I do it.

There must be a reason why +Ultimaker and +BCN3D Technologies use it in favor of a 1.75mm bowden. Maybe extrusion would be more stable? Retracts could be more difficult as you would probably have more filament mass in the hot zone, right?

What are your thoughts?

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Hey everyone. Printing on my Eusthatios is getting better as my hotend cooling is fixed now. I'm actually quite happy in terms of reliability and general printing but on closer look and on brighter materials like this white PLA I do see some marks. They seem to be running around the whole object so they shouldn't be due to some play in my carriage.

Any ideas how i may fight them?

I'm using the ball screw spindles on Z like +Walter Hsiao does.
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E3D might have released that last bit that I needed to give direct extrusion some try on a Eusthatios like machine. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfpvm9z28Qk&mc_cid=53436fc10b&mc_eid=7a5d7e4177

Probably not yet for me as I'm still celebrating my final success in cooling and tuning in some stuff but definitely looks appealing to me.

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Looks like I managed to solve my long lasting problem by just adding some thermal grease. I'm a bit buffled how big the difference is but all that glogging/jamming I had before seems to be gone. At least with the first test which is the PLA that caused me the biggest problems so far. This print isn't perfect yet but that needs just a little bit of temp tuning I guess. Amazing to see that the new carriage seems to work better than I thought without the extrusion chaos.

Thanks for all your input guy. That motivated me enough to just add another few hours into testing and un/remounting the hotend.
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So looks like I did in fact spend the Weekend in the workshop trying to get my Eusthatios running. Overall it hasn't all gone bad but at the end the frustration isn't really any lower than before ( see last comment under this one: https://plus.google.com/+FrankHelmschrott/posts/gDhNkJBJM2J).

For the good parts: I fixed all firmware issues, got everything setup right again and basically the machine runs well. On second chance I'm much happier than I thought with the new carriage. It runs amazingly silent and smooth.

The bad part though is that I'm continueing to see problems with filament jamming, blobs comming out of the nozzle on slow speeds and small parts with PLA and even on filament that isn't as easily meltable as PLA is the problem is visible, Take a look at this light grey Moai that I printed in Colorfabb nGen. You can clearly see the irregular layer lines and given the fact that they run all around and seeing everything much worse with PLA I'm relatively sure that this is the same temperature problem that I kind of always had.

On the current carriage the airflow shouldn't be a real issue, I'm already running the original fan to have the performance that E3D says the hotend needs but I can't seem to get constantly good results.

After reading through https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Troubleshooting a bit (thanks +Sanjay Mortimer) I will try out some more tuning like thermal paste in the heat break and some remounting of everything but my hopes dissapear that I will get that E3D/bowden combination get to run great anytime
I'm already thinking about what a radical solution could be. Changing hotends? Trying the titan for direct extrusion (who wants to carry the weight?)? I don't know but it's frustrating. That printer runs so great but the extrusion seems to be a permanent problem and it seems to be clear temperature problem.

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How Do you tune in new Filaments and/or printers?

I'm already 3d printing for quite some time now and already had several printers and filaments on hand but I'm eager to learn every day so I thought I'd ask how you do the tuning of new Filaments and or printers?

How do you proceed in finding the right temperatures for the new filament? What calibration parts do you use? Andy standards? Anything else you would like to share in terms of calibration?

I hope to collect some feedback. Would be great to see where the differences are and I'm sure most of us can use some of these tips.

🤓

What happened to the fire command? It doesn't seem to be there in any of the actual Smoothieware versions. How are we expected to turn on the laser manually on a given amount of power for testing/tuning? We tried the CNC version of the firmware and the normal edge version.

Also I can't seem to get the open drain method to work. We're using 2.5 as the PWM pin and set it to 2.5o and also tried inverting it. We get either nearly 5V by default (2.5o) or around 1.5V (2.5o!) which seems completely weird. Everything seems to work fine in non-drain mode against 3.3V then of course.

We can still use a level shifter but the open drain method seemed so comfortable. Any ideas?
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