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Frank Helmschrott
Works at Kommuni Media
Attends School of life
Lives in Mering, Germany
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Some of you might be interested in the actual Humble Book bundle about 3D Printing in Drones - i just secured my copy and am already torrenting all the ebooks :-)

Get it while its hot! 
Read and create with MAKE: books while supporting Maker Ed!
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Keith Applegarth's profile photo
 
Awesome deal!
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Frank Helmschrott

General discussion  - 
 
How are your experiences with selling 3D printable designs/files? Which of the platforms that offer selling your designs or even prints of designs are well frequented and do work well in selling?

I'd love to hear any input on this topic.
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David McGuigan's profile photoSamer Najia's profile photoThantiK's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photo
6 comments
 
Thanks for your feedback guys. My primary goal is to sell models indeed - maybe also printed but that's not my main focus. I just wanted to know if you guys already did this and collected some experiences.
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Frank Helmschrott
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All Hardware and Electronics  - 
 
Has anyone seen this mini DLP projector on Indiegogo? Was backed in December and will ship soon (well at least they say it will)

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-first-powerful-mini-tv-projector#/
Enjoy 4K movies, TV shows, action-packed video games and your presentation on screens up to 180” | Crowdfunding is a democratic way to support the fundraising needs of your community. Make a contribution today!
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Julien Dodokal's profile photoShachar Weis's profile photo
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Oh wow, I missed the 5 hour claim. Yeah, this really reeks of a scam. 
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Frank Helmschrott

General discussion  - 
 
Looks like I finally won the XT-CF20 fight with my printer :) This is a followup to this posting https://plus.google.com/u/0/+FrankHelmschrott/posts/TDWsxUn2cAp and especially +Alex Skoruppa may be interested in the results.

The problem seems to be a mixture of Temperature and Speed. I can't really go above 50mm/s to be reliable in priting and i have to go as high as 275°C with the E3D V6 hotend with the 0.40 first gen steel nozzle. I can go a bit  higher with speed though but then the beginning of infill layers (not solid, only the intermittant infill) doesn't get printed well and the nozzle slowly collects a bit of stuff. It's not that problematic but I better avoid it. Also if i lower the temperature or slowly raise speed the infill lines start to break.

Here's some more key settings using Slic3r (didn't get any good results in S3D so far):

Filament width: 1,80 (using my caliper i get between 1,77 and 1,80 when measuring)
Extrusion width: 1

Layer height: 0,20
First layer: 0.30

Extrusion width general: 0.48
External perimeter extrusion width: 0.40
infill extrusion width: 0.48 (experimeted a lot with this in the process but found out keeping it at the "standard" 120% of the nozzle works well)

Printing speed 50mm/s for Perimeters, Infill. Solid infill, 40mm/s for external perimeters, top solid infill and support, 250mm/s travel. 30mm/s first layer.

2 Perimeters, 25% infill - both of which should vary depending on the object of course.

Hope that helps anyone.
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Jon Gordon's profile photoRien Stouten's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photo
7 comments
 
+Rien Stouten can you give me some more details about your settings or your factory file? I'm testing without retraction but can't seem to reach an acceptable quality.
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Frank Helmschrott

Questions/Help  - 
 
I wonder if anyone here has some good tips to optimize my +ColorFabb Helian Polymers XT-CF20 pirinting reliability. This filament is one of my favourite ones but i'm still fighting some problems from time to time so I thought it might be worth talking about. 

I'm printing it on an E3D V6 (bowden).on my Eusthatios Spider V2.The biggest concerns that i have is that i get broken lines on the infill. That doesn't sound really bad and actually it's not a problem itself. The problem is that those loose ends stand up and get picked up by the nozzle where it collects and drops from time to time. This dropping then leads to problems. From small ones which means extrusion problems until this piece falls of and down on the plate. The result is probably a missing piece of perimeter which can ruin a perfect surface. The by far worse thing that happens quite frequently is that it drops that ball of filament somewhere where it sticks and dries which makes it a nearly inviolable hurdle for the nozzle/hotend and often leads to missed steps and a corrupt print.

I'm currently printing with around 260°C and speeds around 50mm/s (slower perimeters, sometimes a bit faster infill but not that much) and have set the diameter to 1,77 in Slic3r. I also used Cura and S3D and basically do get the same results.

Also i'm using the first generation steel nozzle that E3D was selling (which wasn't the hardened nozzle yet)

Any input is appreciated. I'm going to do some testing on the weekend probably. 

Attached find a photo of a just finished print from today. 0.15mm layer height and basically good quality apart from the wear you see all over, the missing perimeter in about mid height and as an example one of the "collected" piece in front of the print on the plate.

Thanks in advance for your input.
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Eric Lien's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photoJos van der Plas's profile photoFabien Moret's profile photo
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Hello! With that filament I print at 240 degrees (e3d v6 siliconed, 0.4 reinforced nozzle). I also add a little bit of fan just around the nozzle to fix the just extruded filament. I like that xt-cf20 filament, it sticks very well to the hot bed and it's very strong. Be very careful with slic3r as since v. 1.2.7 it suffers from an over extrusion issue with some shapes!
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Frank Helmschrott

General discussion  - 
 
Anyone into 3d modelling more than me? I'm especially interested in these patterns that you often see on vases or lamps. How can those be done? I know about math abilities in OpenSCAD but i'm sure there are some more interactive and less codish approaches to this kind of stuff, right?

Any help would be appreciated.

some examples attached (stolen from thingiverse)
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Frank Helmschrott's profile photoTomáš Vít's profile photoTed Huntington's profile photoMark Rehorst's profile photo
11 comments
 
What software is used to make things like fractal cross section vases? I'm sure in the right software it is easy- enter the fractal formula and step some of the parameters for each layer or even a continuous solid.
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I wonder if anyone has yet thought about cloning an Ultimaker?

I'm looking for a good desktop size printer that can sit next to my computer, look good and don't take so much room. I'd be fine to have a small print bed for that and PLA only.

The Ultimaker 2 Go looks quite cool for that and as it's open source and not so different to an Eusthatios Spider I thought I cant be the first one thinking about that. I already checked plans and looks like I would have around 80% of the stuff lying around.... what do you think?

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go
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Tomek Brzezinski's profile photoChristian Gooch's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photoIgor Kolesnik's profile photo
9 comments
 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271 maybe to hacky but DIY clone
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Frank Helmschrott

Show and Tell  - 
 
One more update to my weekend maintenance was more a cosmetic issue. I had already cut a fitting front plate for my display when the printer was finished but quickyl exchanged electronics (and display) for a new one. The display then sit there for months fixed with some tape. Yesterday i finally managed to cut a new front plate and an acrylic display cover. I'm quite satisfied with the result - what do you think?

For those interested: I used 4mm Dibond/Firstbond for the covers. It's normally used for advertising signs as it can be printed on. It has a plastic core and a painted aluminum front and back cover. It's quite tough/stable, has a nice finish and it's good to work with (drill, mill, saw)
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Eric Lien's profile photoDaniel F's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photo
14 comments
 
and additionally it runs from the extension port and not from the rather sensitive/in stable LCD port. I also have the default display which definitely was problematic from the beginning (not only for me) in terms of stability. 
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Frank Helmschrott

Show and Tell  - 
 
I finally startet my Eusthatios Spider V2 maintenance this weekend. First step was the biggest: replace the carriage with a new one that suits two crossing LM8LUU bearings. 

Thankfully +Eric Lien modified the X/Y-ends for me a while ago so that the rods have a slightly bigger distance to make room for the 15mm OD bearings to cross each other.

Just doing the first print and quality looks even better than before but that maybe just due to this special print. I made some mistakes when reaming the x/y ends which will probably let me replace everything again in a while but i noticed that only after everything was built in and as it runs for now I'll leave it :)

 Next step is to replace my Dibond cover plates to fit the display that i only had taped down so far and also a new 80mm Case fan.

sorry for the bad imagery - i didn't realize i could take some more photos during the build process so just some finished ones for now.
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Eric Lien's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photo
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Sure I will, Eric. Was going to publish that anyway as soon as it's a bit more tested.
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Frank Helmschrott

General discussion  - 
 
I wonder what your favourite self-build/open source 3d printer is for direct extrusion? I'm looking for something solid, normally sized, maybe ready for a second extruder later. I'm already running one wonderful Eusthatios and am looking for a good direct drive companion especially for flex and other special filaments.

I'm also thinking about probably buying a Hephestos 2 from BQ as a less time consuming alternative, but after clearing up my shop chaos today i noticed that there's probably enough vitamins for 5 printers lying around so a self build variant should be the smarter solution.

But which one is great in print quality and also practical for a self build? SparkCube? Prusa i3? What do you like most?
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Joe Spanier's profile photoEric Lien's profile photoRichard Horne's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photo
9 comments
 
thanks guys.

+Eric Lien I'm indeed a member of the Talos group for quite a while and looked at the orderable kits today as sourcing open build stuff here in Germany is bit of a problem. Sounds like a good option if shipping isn't too immense.

+Richard Horne I've already seen your Hep2 video of course. seems to be a well designed hi Q i3 variant with a great extruder. 
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Hey guys - that printer looks great. Really makes me think if i should build another table-moving-printer again though i kinda hate it. I still have tons of makerslide in the basement but unfortunately no v-rail and not a single clue where to get it in Germany. Guess it would be way to expensive to ship it over from the US.
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+Frank Helmschrott I think every design has its strengths and weaknesses, I chose to start with a Cartesian design because is very simple and very easy to understand its movement. I'm trying to build a printer that can print consistently well and it's easy to maintain. We're still far from a plug and play solution when it comes to consumer level 3D printers, but we can always try to minimize the little annoyances that come with it. And I firmly believe that the Community itself will be invaluable help!

Once all sources and guides are finished (probably by the end of the month). Hit me up and we can try to make it work with the makerslides, you should be able to reuse those for a few of the dimensions in the design!

Thank you for the kind words, and the interest.
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Frank Helmschrott

Deviations from Norm  - 
 
+Eric Lien i haven't used Solidworks so far (and have no access to it) - is it easy for you to modiy a part and to offset features a bit? If so could you probably modify the XY end belt tensioner (https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2/blob/master/STL%20Print%20FIles/XY%20Axis%20Belt%20Tensioner%20A.STL) and move the whole for the crossbars 3mm away from the outer bars? I'm going to design an LM8LUU-Carriage and i think it would be better to be able to cross the bearings which wouldn't be possible with the curerent distance of bars. 6mm more would give roughly 1-2mm between the bearings and should still work fine.

If it's too much of a work don't worry - in this case i'll completely redraw them.
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Eric Lien's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photoMiguel Sánchez's profile photo
9 comments
 
+Frank Helmschrott for moving some features (faces and holes) you can select them, select a direction and distance to be moved. I am sure other tools can do that too, but Onshape being online it means it is a matter of seconds to get it done (once you know the move face icon, of course :-)

You can see the transformation history on the left pane, so you can see I did it in two steps as I missed one face in the first move face command.
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Have him in circles
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  • Kommuni Media
    2000 - present
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Mering, Germany
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DIY Enthusiast, 3D printing nerd, CNC fan, Hobbyist.
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still workin' on that life
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Education
  • School of life
    1974 - present
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Eigentlich wollten wir es als Bayern vermeiden in ein bayerisches Lokal in Hamburg zu gehen, doch die Umstände (Umstehende Restaurants überfüllt) haben dann doch dafür gesorgt. Die Tatsache, dass das bayerische an dieser Lokalität eher einer Satireveranstaltung gleicht, soll auch nur minimal in die Bewertung einfließen. Das Lokal ist gemütlich eingerichtet, bietet ordentlich Platz und abgesehen von der grauenvollen Musikmischung (Schlager, volkstümliche Musik, viel Trash) kann man hier sehr gut sitzen. Diverse Paulaner-Biersorten werden in für Bayern nicht immer üblichen Mengen ausgeschenkt - die Schankqualität ist auch eher unbayerisch. Die Qualität des Essens war von gut bis mittelmäßig verteilt. Leider wird auch hier sehr viel Bayern simuliert. Bayerische Ess- und Trinkkultur ist eigentlich einfach, hier ist man dennoch weitestgehend überfordert. Der Service war heute Abend leider auch eher unterdurchschnittlich - vom anwesenden Personal hat niemand ernsthafte Leidenschaft für seinen Job gezeigt.
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