It's actually kind of funny because the trends run sort of opposite at either end of the quality spectrum for wine and hamburgers. A nice bottle of wine treated properly will be of similar quality whereever. Sure it's a living product, and while the specific flavors may dominate depending on many factors, the quality is most likely going to be similar and high whether I'm in San Francisco or Dubai. Cheap wine is a bottle to bottle gamble. Wines of the same label and vintage may taste like they aren't even made from the same grape.
On the other hand, while Big Macs all taste about the same, a hamburger at a great restaurant in New York may taste nothing like one in London.
The real problem with wine criticism isn't that it's inherently worthless, just that it's no more concrete than any other form of art or food criticism. And yet, there are only three critical bodies in the wine world that anybody cares about. Can you imagine how insane it would be if there were only three movie critics and the price of movie tickets was subject to how much those three guys liked the film? And film, while very divisive person to person, is much more static than wine. It's bonkers.