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Darryl Adams
Works at ATO
Attends Parramatta Marist
Lives in Greystanes NSW
350 followers|189,267 views


Autoleveling. My nemisis.

1. I manually set the firmware offset to 1.5mm (A depth I can guesstimate based on unrelated project on the X Carve).

2. G28 and G29 works. In Cura I get the offset feedback on the terminal, so I know this is working ok. The head moves cleanly and with no grinding on the board.

3. I have manually set the head about 2mm from the bed and using my 1.5mm gauge I have lifted the autoleveling sensor to about the right hight

3. Print. The Z Axis pushes below level and the head rest on the bed,

Any assistance will be apreciated. 
Olivier Bilodeau's profile photoDiego Trapero's profile photo
I don't know what is happening, it's something that hasn't happened to me in all this time. I comment your post to receive any new updates and maybe with more information being able to help.
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Darryl Adams

Discussion  - 
On a different but related topic. The +robodino : Robots and Dinosaurs Sydney Hackerspace has a X carve which is now working. It comes what one member calls Baby's First CnC Control software. As a result, I was thinking how many parts could be milled. The back plane for one of cause, but also the X and Y axis end stops. The issue is the EASEL software does not take DXF but you can import SVG files. So some work may be needed and this may prove beyond my basic skillsets....

Using 8mm acrylic would be good material to work with I hope :-)
Open source kits to build a machine for milling plastics, woods, and metals
Diego Trapero's profile photo
I use 8mm acrylic, so that shoud be good. Also, I think FreeCAD can export to SVG, and also there are other controller software (I use bCNC for my small CNC) that accept DXF, in fact most should.
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Because Cura is devil spawn software, back to Matter Control. The calibration - box file. The squigly line is the bits just too far frim print head.

The raft is a bit spongy, but the box is box shaped and the walls look smooth with little flaw in it. 
Diego Trapero's profile photoDarryl Adams's profile photoOlivier Bilodeau's profile photowylder barrows's profile photo
Just make a profile for each of your filaments. It will save everything you change in that filament.
I do it that way and works great!
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OK, with the help of the +robodino : Robots and Dinosaurs Sydney Hackerspace (Thanks Gav) I have the M Prime Working!!!!

All i need to do now is calibrate the autoleveling (doing this by eye is not working.

Also need to fix the bed. Tray keeps popping off.

But it is looking good!!!!
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Issue with endstops.

X endstop did not work at all, need to be replaced
Y Endstop works fine (can see it when I use G code G302)

Extruder works fine, have not tested the extruder and head loaded with PLA.

However, the printer treats the Y Home as fully extended rather that what I expected as fully retracted, Is this something to fox in Marlin?

Also no joy with the Z Inductive sensor. This may mean more experiments for me, but it can wait until after I get X and Y homing correctly.

Also, the X Axis and X stepper base is rather short for my liking. Has anyone extended the width of these so that the bed can half support at least half way in?

This has been an interesting build and a steep learning curve. One of the other +robodino : Robots and Dinosaurs Sydney Hackerspace members brought in a more propriety printer, and I could see the benifits of a simple standards based build, although the aluminium framed box looks rather sexy.....
Darryl Adams's profile photoDiego Trapero's profile photo
OK. What do you mean by:

"However, the printer treats the Y Home as fully extended rather that what I expected as fully retracted, Is this something to fox in Marlin?"
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Darryl Adams

Discussion  - 
My printer is about 90% done. Things to do:

Wire 2 fans to ramps board
Wire induction sensor wire to z axis

Things imight do:

Laser cut a box to store PSU and the wires (its a mess enough) including a power switch.

It getting scary now
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What is the difference with the old x axis ends and the new (hopefully near 1.0 ver) ?

I need to keep looking at the git hub more often :-S
Diego Trapero's profile photo
The new x_axis_end are a bit lower, thicker if I my memory doesn't fail me and the most important difference is that they have a hole in the magnet pocket to hold the new bolted magnet (
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Reprinting my X ends (tried to recess the magnets deeper so they where flush with the x ends. Lets say a dremel freehand is a dangerous tool for me), First attempt with ABS on Printrbot caused splitting when put under tension with the nut/bolt. Do I need to go denser or less dense with the print?

I am using the Printrbot as my Mini and the Space Up both have serious warping issues :-(

Also, found this remix and was wondering if I can mix and match the parts. The extended x posts are awesome, and the spacer for the steppers was almost perfect (did not match the dimensions of the stock x axis motor mount).

Includes my mods to the wonderful M Prime One 3D printer by Diego. You can see all the mods put together @ Check out my SCARA robot project @ New 4-7 X & Y trays with longer snap-in bearing holders for the QU-BD conversion guys New 3-30-2016 3mm Nema 17 spacer plate* *New 3-27-2016 Modified Y motor mount!! - All snap-in, No zip ties!, lean design with built-in 1/4-16 ...
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Well it is half the size and resolution is poor. Trying Cura to see if it is the matter control settings....
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Darryl Adams

Discussion  - 
Ok. I am officially printing!

This is with the default extruder.

However the bed is not level so i will need to tweek this. It is preventing larger prints like the Matter Control calibration circle. Close in it is right but further away the print head is too far off the surface.

However the Dragonlock system is smaller so i can test everything else before printing the bigger stuff.

Lets see what happens!
Jesus Consuegra's profile photo
Same happens to me, I had to put some cardboard in between the magnet and the dish on the back side of the printing bed. I printed the plastic parts on my PowerCode, probably I'd have to print them again on the M Prime One and rebuild.

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Darryl Adams

Discussion  - 
Well I powered up the M Prime, I have almost have a printer!

1. None of the steppers move, despite seeing the G Code via the terminal.
2. The Hot end takes a while to heat up.

But apart from that it is working fine! 
Diego Trapero's profile photoDarryl Adams's profile photo
OK, the problem was with the power to the Ramps board (I somehow thought it was 5v not 5 for the Stepper motor feed).

Now I am trying to get the X and Y end stops to work. The Config I have is as folows


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Darryl Adams

Discussion  - 
Does anyone use Matter Control for driving the M Prime? I find Cura to be an abomination in the eyes of the lord and Peltier to be the spawn of satan.

The other option is Octo Print, as I may end up using a Pi as the control system for the printer. 
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS. What does MatterControl do? MatterControl is a 3D printing software application that allows you to organize your 3D printable design and helps manage the process of printing those designs on a 3D printer. Specifically, MatterControl communicates with your 3D printer, ...
Olivier Bilodeau's profile photoDarryl Adams's profile photoJesus Consuegra's profile photo
Octoprint does accept GCODE files, so you can sílice with whichever slicer you prefer and then upload to Octoprint
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Greystanes NSW
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