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Colin Faulkingham
Works at Indoff Inc
Lived in Waterville, ME
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Colin Faulkingham

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Broken glass bed. Apparently it happened during the print. No heat.
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Phil Hord's profile photoJack Absetz's profile photoGordon McLellan's profile photoColin Faulkingham's profile photo
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Nearly identical cracks in the one that i busted. I figured its a matter of too thin of glass.  Its a toss up between thin for good heat xfer and thick so it doesnt crack. 
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Colin Faulkingham

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I am pushing some boundaries here with a really big print on a cold bed covered with a glue. You can start to see where the brim is starting to lift a little.
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+Phil Hord not yet.
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I will have to admit I am really diging how nicley this Nylon is printing.
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Turned out really nice!
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Made it.
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David Achilleus's profile photoAaron Eiche's profile photoColin Faulkingham's profile photo
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Thanks, Colin. They turned out great and should be the last printed parts I need.
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Argh! The Google photos app for Android really sucks ass. I had no idea I was deleting photos on Google+ I thought I was removing from my phone. 
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Ouch! 😞
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Colin Faulkingham

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Opps! After I left I was worried that the filament roll might get tangled up.  +David Achilleus went and checked on the print a couple hours after I left and sure enough it was tangled. Before I do anymore large prints with this Nylon (http://goo.gl/K5N1H0) roll I will have to come up with yet another spool holder.  
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Phil Hord's profile photoDavid Achilleus's profile photoJames Newton's profile photoColin Faulkingham's profile photo
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Spools are the devils plaything. Try this (it worked pretty good for me): Put the spool flat on a shelf above the printer with the shelf removed. LOL. that is to say: use the shelf mounting brackets to hold the spool on the left and right so the hole in the center is not obstructed on the bottom. Now: Feed the filament up off the outside of the spool and back down through the hole in the middle of the spool. No, the filament doesn't get twisted up. Works better than anything else I've tried. 
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The Nylon version is pretty flexible but it works.
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"Why, yes, I have printed a gun on my 3D printer."
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So this is what is working for me with my new roll of Nylon (http://goo.gl/K5N1H0). I cooked the roll in the oven at 170 F for 4 hours which seemed to eliminate most of the steam spitting from the nozzle.

I printed at 250 C on Elmers glue stick (http://goo.gl/ko1Dfe) coated glass with a bed temp at 60 C.

The front edge lifted a little nothing a tab or raft wouldn't fix.
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Jack Absetz's profile photoJason Gullickson's profile photoMike Beardmore's profile photoColin Faulkingham's profile photo
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+Jason Gullickson the brim worked perfectly on a large part.
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Not sure I am going to make it.
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My first attempt with the weed whacker line at 230 C laid down really nicely on the bed. However it didn't fair so well when the speed increased for the infill. Had I slowed it down I could have printed at 230 C. I ended up increasing it to 260 C to prevent the infill from breaking up. The glue stick kept the print down for the most part it didn't start warping till the 9th layer or so.  I could probably turn on the heated bed and prevent it from cooling to quickly.

It also spewed quite a bit of steam. I will need to take it home and dry it out in the oven.  It's really strong but it more flexible then I thought it would be.
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+Phil Hord Yeah that was just with the glue stick. It didn't start warping until the 9 layer or so. When it was done it was still pretty stuck to the bed.
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  • Indoff Inc
    Director of IT Development & VP of e-Marketing, present
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