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Chris Muncy
559 followers -
Systems Analyst for Sam Houston State University Police Research Center - Technology Junkie - Shade Tree Mechanic - Breaks things that others say are unbreakable - Will weld for bandwidth
Systems Analyst for Sam Houston State University Police Research Center - Technology Junkie - Shade Tree Mechanic - Breaks things that others say are unbreakable - Will weld for bandwidth

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We have had a lot of talk about bed height, max Z height, and M666. One of the tools that I find invaluable is a set of feeler gauges. Not just any gauges, but long ones like these from Amazon: https://goo.gl/rRVeBx .This way when I am setting up my distances/gaps, I know exactly how far to adjust M666 and the max Z height.
Inexpensive tool for a lot fewer headaches.

Really getting tired of trying to clear this clog.......

I am DONE with this POS filament that comes with our printers. Every time I decide I want to print white, I seem to troubleshoot an anomaly that only happens with this no-name PLA that I don't get with hatchbox or 3D Solutech.

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OK so I printed a set of the vibration dampening feet , http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1782759
3KU, and the springs that go with them from Amazon as described in the write up. I figure it would cut down on some of the intense shaking that this printer does. So after a few sessions of printing these, a pair at a time, I placed them under the printer. OK they fit well I thought to myself. About an hour later I fired up a small print and went in to the living room. About 15 minutes later I realized I didn't hear the printer printing so I go and check on it. Well crap, it was half way in to the print and quiet as hell.

If you want to quite your printer, to maybe 25% of how loud it is stock, I suggest printing these.

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I got some BuildTak yesterday from Amazon and put it on my 220mm borosilicate glass bed. I've used tape, I've used glue stick, I've used PEI, but nothing compares to this stuff. I got 3 sheets of 10" x 10". Each sheet has its own adhesive so no need to use any 3M adhesive.

I readjusted by Z height, started printing, and noticed an immediate improvement in how the first layers were sticking. I printed a part that was over 100mm long and experienced no warping with Hatchbox Yellow PLA. But damn, I thought I was going to break the glass trying to get the part off.

Spend the extra cash and go order a few sheets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN5X07K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



So I had something interesting happen yesterday. I started printing a test cube to see if anything has changed since the optical end stops were installed and the releveling of the bed. The skirt printed so so. I have it set to 4 wide. I noticed that they weren't sticking together and seemed to be no adhering to the PEI. So I stopped the print, flipped the build plate over to show just the glass side. I smeared the purple glue stick on it and started printing. Same thing. Up'd the temp from 195 up to 215 at one point. Same thing.

Then I heard it, or, I started paying attention to it. The extruder stepper was skipping, or more like the gear was slipping on the filament. So I stop again, back out the tensioner and set the extruder to 200. I try to push filament down with no luck. Damn thing is now plugged up.

So with the nozzle still at 200, I trimmed the end of the filament and shoved it back in. Low and behold I see a birds nest being created so no more plugged hot end. Put everything back together, home the printer, clear the oozing hot end and go to print. Prints like a champ.

I have no idea what caused the jamb but pulling the filament out and putting it back in fixed it.

Just thought I'd share. I've never seen that type of plugged up hot end that I didn't have to take everything apart.

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So a few weeks ago I ordered a set of cheap optical end stops to go along with some prints to mount them: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1953430 . All I can say is OMFG DO IT NOW!!!! I could never really calibrate the printer with M666 and I finally saw that my mechanical limit switches were bending and had bent almost to the point of not working.

So I got the optical end stops and I had to print a piece at a time in the center of the build plate that I knew was true. I did a M666 X0 Y0 Z0 to reset everything and took out any axis adjustments that I had in SImplify3D. I opened configuration.h and edited const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true and changed it to false on all 3 axis for MAX. I then ran z to 1, measured the distance to the bed with some feeler gauges and adjusted the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS to a final figure of 286.2 ( as a side note, I needed to do this as I removed the aluminum build plate, installed a 220mm heated bed in its place, then I clamp a 220 circle of borosilicate glass on top of that with a coating of PEI). Once all of that was done, it took all of 5 minutes to level the bed with M666 and BAM! Printing like a rock star!

I highly recommend this. When I initially printed my end stop interrupters, I printed them in white PLA. Well..... its translucent, it doesn't stop the light between the 2 posts. So I put some black heat shrink around them and eventually reprinted them in black PLA. So for the end stop optical coupler holders I had to print at 105% to make them fit correctly but I also had to open up the mounting holes as well. You will also need some longer #4 hardware to mount them with.

All in all, I say it was a much needed improvement. 

Good evening gents. I got my 3KU almost a year ago after watching GREAT SCOTT put his together. Just this past week over the holidays I got it completed and running shakedown prints. I'm glad I found you guys :-)

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