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+Whosa whatsis, for my own education, mind elaborating on some of the corners that the solidoodle cut and why you found it to be such a low quality machine?
Ross Hendrickson's profile photoBenjamin Rockhold's profile photoWhosa whatsis's profile photo
How about the bit where pipe clamps are used to hold the shafts in place? 
(Edit; for precision I should add that this was the v1 and v2 models, I am not familiar with v3.)
If you had asked a couple of hours earlier, I would have had one here to check and list them off, but from memory...

The casing is made of thin, cheap-looking pieces sheet steel (galvanized?) that looked prone to rust and had inner edges sharp enough that if it bumped something and slipped in your hand while carrying it, they could cut you. These pieces were held together with rivets that seemed pretty imprecise. The linear rods were press-fit in holes in this frame with hose clamps to keep them from sliding out, leaving no room for adjusting for squareness. The parts are assumed to be square, with no way to adjust. If the frame gets tweaked in transport (their shipping is apparently pretty rough), you're hosed. The idler pulleys were the same aluminum-cored plastic pulleys as on the motors (only with the setscrews removed) held on fully-threaded M5 screws (you can actually watch them climb the threads as they turn). They use self-aligning brass bushings instead of bearings for all axes. The extruder was a stacked laser-cut acrylic affair of a type that is notorious for cracking under the necessary stresses. The extruder motor was significantly underpowered and run over-current, with a heatsink and fan on the back to keep it from burning out. The cantilevered Z platform is made from lasercut material (looked like styrene, but I'm not sure) glued together with finger joints. The printed X-axis parts looked worse than the ones we reject in our production line and are designed without proper attention to layer orientation for strength. The belts are attached to the carriages by punching holes through them to screw into. The controller is a poorly hand-soldered (with burnt flux all over the bottom) Sanguinololu with Atmega644P (instead of the now more common 1284P) with an old bootloader that has the wrong baud rate for the current Sanguino library and an ancient Marlin build that won't compile with the current libraries. It uses two-pin headers for the heaters instead of the four-pin ones the sanguinololu is designed to use (not rated for the current that goes through them). All of the wiring uses those awful MTA156 connectors.

I'm sure I missed something, but I think that's more than enough. The whole thing just screams chintzy when you look at it any closer than the pictures they post. I've been tempted to buy one several times, but that all went away the first time I saw one in person.
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