Camera / Hiking Backpack Suggestions??

Hi gang - so I'm taking a pretty cool trip in a month to South America, starting in the Ecuadorian Cloud Forest, then to Galapagos, and then to Peru. It's time for me to get practical and ditch my fashion camera bag :( So, I need your suggestions to help me pick. I tend to get a back ache while carrying my gear, so probably need to make quite an investment in something that will shift the weight off my back. I've seen some folks mention that going with a quality hiking backpack and then getting inserts might be a good move, but what do you think?

I will be carrying 2 DSLR bodies, 3-4 lenses, flash, and other accessories. Oh, and it needs to fit under plane seat or in overhead compartment Thanks in advance for your thoughts! :)
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