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Alexander Leisentritt

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Yesterday I ordered some things from E3D including a spare glass for the bed.
This morning this had happened to the bed with the last print:

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Ok I got a problem with the PCB it seems but DONE! :)
(For my problem I opened a thread on the forums... As I said, forums for real discussion, G+ for showing off...)

Not so nice: changing the bearings in the bed corners cracked one corner piece when retightening... This was the corner where I had problems initially getting the bearing in. Then problems getting it out again and the new one in. The other three went very easy. And then it cracked.
Printing replacement parts on my UM2 right now in Colorfabb XT Clear. Four pieces... So the heights are aligned best rather than printing only one and use the originals...

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So it turned out good to be backer #217!
My BigBox arrived this tuesday with no cracks in the frame! Maybe this was because of the new packaging.
I had a good time assembling the parts and sub-assemblies tuesday and wednesday. Lots of tea! ;)
But now I am a little off the build guide because I was not very pleased with the linear bearings. I have at least one which runs not as smooth as the others on every rod. It has that circular force trying to rotate the bearing around the rod when sliding over and slides a lot stronger than all the others. Two are not worse but have that symptoms a little.
That's exactly what my experience was with other cheap bearings.
I know: "just buy more cheap and sort the bad ones out, will be cheaper than buying hq" but that's not what I think and want.
So I ordered hq bearings from Misumi, they will arrived tomorrow, then I can continue building the motions system. Ok they cost around 4,50€ each but all the others I used from Misumi have been great with no bad ones!

I did almost everything around the motion system I could assemble.
So far so good :)!
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So because the time of delivery is coming close I thought again how I am going to do the remote power control of my BB.
There was the solution to add a second power supply for the Pi and control the main power supply with a relay.
That's a very nice solution but I think I will do the same I already did with my UM2.
I just use a 433 remote plug and the transceiver on the RPi and just power the RPi with an extra USB power supply I have laying around and I already have spare 433 transmitters at home.
So this will be the easiest for me atm...
And it is setup quite fast, just plug and install some things on the RPi and copy what I did on the UM2...

So bored waiting on the BigBox I started building it in SolidWorks. Half way through the parts preparation of the build manual...

Are there any recommendations to use a thread lock, like Locktite, on some screws? Maybe the pulley grub screws?

OK I am prepared!
I stocked a lot of 1.75mm filament for the BB.
I converted my Ultimaker 2 finally to 1.75mm, still have some 2.85mm filament but I am getting rid of it. I can switch my UM2 from 2.85mm to 1.75mm in about 10 Minutes...
Anyways it seems extrusion is much more consistent with 1.75mm. Did some test prints only atm with 1.75, all around 2 hours but they look very promising, much better than with 2.85mm filament of the same brand and color. I used the same settings, only changed the diameter in S3D.
Always had problems with the 2.85mm when printing over 50mm/s with under extrusion and had to push temperature and still had extrusion issues. Not with 1.75, I can stay within manufacturer's temp ranges...

Come on and ship it! :-) I am #217...

Just stumbled accross a new feature in SolidWorks 2016!
Finally I have a feature for creating threads! REAL THREADS aka helix cutout or extrude! As one feature! Based on "Lib Feat Part (sldlfp)" file with profiles!
Inch and metric, die and tap and whatever "SP4xx Bottle" is are included!

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For those who are working with SolidWorks and 3D print I made a little open source addin to export STL files easily.
You can find it on GitHub.
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