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Alex Wiebe
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Nokia-1 / Android 8.1 Go edition. Anyone using it? Does it work with P/Rebble software?

Anyone have a +Printrbot Rev D compatible firmware that keeps the Z axis powered all the time? I've upgraded the threaded rod and now the lack of hold on the Z-axis is causing the weight of the arm to unwind down and pancake/flatten my prints.

This board's been running great for years - it came with the laser cut plywood and fishing line model! I think only the board, steppers and end stop switches are still OEM. Everything else has been replaced/printed/upgraded :-)

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I thought a brim was to prevent edge curl - LOL!

I'm getting closer, but the 3 point electromagnetical-metal-detecting in a emi noisy environment is far from perfect. Observant readers will note the little piece of aluminum duct tape on the bottom left corner of the bed to help trick the probe into plotting a more accurate plane. It has helped, but I'm still plowing into the bed at the top left, and nearly air-printing at the bottom right.

I also moved the printer over to the left to be further from the power cord strapped down to the bench. That has helped as well.

I'd like to get a couple more level points in, but I understand that means compiling new firmware - I don't quite have that time/brain energy yet.

Doesn't help that I'm printing at 0.1mm layer height (w/ 0.2mm nozzle). +Printrbot Smalls with 0.2mm nozzle.
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Spent a bit of time with my +printrbot Smalls today. Gave it a more stable base to stand on.

The extended (heated) bed option puts too much mass away from the printer and it tilts / tips over and the end of the bed drags on the bench/table/whatever the printer is on.

I still haven't got up the nerve to reflash the firmware and so, it hasn't done much printing. (The bed leveling/probing 3 point plane is inaccurate and causes the head to crash in one corner).

Z banding / wobble when printing straight edges, but not circles?

Printer is a Printrbot Frankenbot - so I'm not expecting perfection as I may have issues with how centered and true the threaded rods and vertical steel rods are aligned.

I printed some 25mm OD hose adapters (vertical tube, with walls 3mm thick - so multiple loops and 10% infill). I was surprised at how well they turned out - virtually perfectly straight verticals. Essentially no trace of Z wobble or banding. Sliced with Cura, 0.2mm layer height.

Same printer, but using KISSlicer to slice at 50% layer height (of a 0.4mm nozzle), so 0.2mm as well. I'm printing a 100mm x 100mm box and I'm seeing banding on a regular basis - tell tale sign of z wobble.

Why would circular paths suppress / hide the wobble?

Question about how +Printrbot utilizes the G29 homing code. Can I change the 3 points used to determine the bed plane?

I'm not sure if my bed is warped (possible, but unlikely - its a very well machined aluminum plate - the X axis upgrade for the Smalls) or if interference is skewing results, but I my printer is practically scraping the bed at one corner, and barely sticking at the opposite corner.

From my PCB milling days, I seem to recall a homing technique that probed a grid pattern - is there something similar for the Smalls?

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+Printrbot+Brook Drumm​ Here's my heated bed setups. The little smalls 150mm pulling 17-18A when hot (it's more when cold) and the 200mm only pulling 12A when cold.

I have an older green printrbot 150mm bed heater. My meter shows 1.0 ohms through the heating trace and 0.2 when shorted. That would be 0.8 ohms for a pull of 15A.
Printrbot HotBeds
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My +Printrbot Smalls has the upgraded heated bed. A couple questions:

a) Current handling of the board: I'm reading > 20A ! heating the ~6" bed. That is almost the current of the ~8" printrbot bed I've added to my Simple. When I put the larger bed on the Simple I bought a heatsinked DC SSR to handle the current. When I bought the Smalls heated bed upgrade, I assumed the mainboard can handle the current - I'm hoping I'm right!

b) Auto level / bed / Z sensor - not very sensitive. To get it to work I have it about 0.1mm higher than the tip of the printer. Any little curling or blob on a print will strike the sensor. Anyone else have that problem? If I raise it anymore the head will strike the bed before the sensor triggers. Can I file/sand some of the yellow/amber coloured coating on the bottom to give myself a bit more clearance?

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Supports? I don't need no stinkin' supports! :-)

Inside of the box was not cosmetic, so suggested to the customer that printing without supports would be faster and cost less. Warned them that it would be really stringy / droopy because of sagging bridges.

Did not expect it to turn out this well! (Heavily modified +Printrbot Simple Maker edition - the laser cut plywood and fishing lines are loosely assembled on a museum shelf elsewhere in my shop).
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Finished assembling my +Printrbot Smalls today. Went to run a motor test, and I've got a weird issue with the Y system. (X and Z are behaving normally) Something internal is messed up. Here are the symptoms:

Relevant M501 settings:
> M211 Y150 (depth of bed)
> M92 Y80.00 (normal steps / mm for typical hdw)

Home-Y: Appears to work ok. Arm is pulled in until stop is triggered, it backs out a few mms then crawls in slower until stop is triggered again.

Command any Y position (G0 Y0.1, G1 Y10, etc) and the arm extends out to exactly the distance limited by M211 (in my case 150mm). - Note: I initially attempted to move out to the 50mm position and was freaked out by the arm crashing into the far mechanical limits and attempting to continue for a couple seconds!

I'm using the same Repetier Host running on the same laptop with the same configuration as my older Printrbot Simple (which prints just fine).
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