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Alex Wiebe
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Alex Wiebe

Questions/Help  - 
 
CooCheer - anyone heard of them? This is crazy if legit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/232053453302

$99 for a decent sized printer - some assembly required.

So is this a hobbyist/self starter's dream or nightmare? Anyone have experience with these orders?
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Andrew Olvera's profile photoNadav Mavor's profile photo
3 comments
 
and look as the price was typo its not up to 259$ (standard for that typo of printer)
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Alex Wiebe

Questions/Help  - 
 
What do people do to their prints to keep them from becoming brittle? Paint? Nothing?

I was fiddling with a little trinket I printed a few months ago and it broke. Made me realize that PLA gets brittle with moisture/age. Then I started thinking about all the upgrades to my printer that are made from PLA.

Should I be concerned?
Going forward, if printing something that is meant to have a long(er) life expectancy, how should I treat the plastic to prevent/reduce moisture absorbsion?
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Björn Marl's profile photoJules Hoehn's profile photoRyan Carlyle's profile photoSamer Najia's profile photo
5 comments
 
What I love about XTC3D is that it is a resin, makes a hard smooth coat on the surfaces of my parts and so long as the part is not out in the elements (sun, rain, heat), it does just fine for medium duty tasks. Even ABS is something I coat if I want it to take a beating. I guess it depends on what sort of punishment you are putting your parts through without any post fabrication treatment, how solid the part is and what it is exposed to (heat, chemicals, water flow, UV). In my case, the answer is always: it depends.
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Alex Wiebe

Questions/Help  - 
 
2 hour print at 60mm/s! Thanks +Printr bot​ for your help!

With the replacement hot end I was able to back off both pinch roller tension and extruder stepper current while still maintaining full speed.
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Griffin Paquette's profile photoE. LeFort's profile photoAlex Wiebe's profile photo
3 comments
 
+Griffin P. Yes, at least I think so. It's the metal hot end - my ceramic one seems to have worn out (even after trying a replacement tip). I figured the replacement hot end that they sent me (arrived yesterday) was the same as the starter kit (which isn't quite up and running yet). So I installed that one. The only difference I can see between the two is that one's heat sink is black and the other isn't. 

I also received a better extruder (just the aluminum - no stepper) but as noted in previous discussions, I don't have room for the extended arm - so it's on standbye until I redesign/reprint the Y axis head/arm assembly.
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Alex Wiebe

Show-n-tell  - 
 
When trying to push higher volumes of PLA on a +Printr bot Simple, cooling is very important.

I forgot to turn on a supplementary cooling fan. Its job is to cool the top half of the Ubis and extruder assembly.

Came down to find the PLA packed into the hot end and wrapped around the extruder like I've never seen before.

Took a while to clean that mess up...
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Alex Wiebe's profile photoTim Elmore's profile photoBrook Drumm's profile photo
19 comments
 
Agreed. I was just wondering if they turned up the pot to compensate for more resistance on the filament. Once tensioning is good, try the 60% setting on the pots and see how the motor feels. Not sure if you turned up the pot. 
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Alex Wiebe

Questions/Help  - 
 
I'm a little slow on the uptake here, but I've recently made a discovery (spurred in part by the speed printing discussion a few days ago):

* Higher temperature hot-ends can extrude faster.

So my question is: does +Printr bot (or someone) have a table of recommended hot-end temperature to max flow rate?

I was struggling with jamming and heat creep on my +Printr bot Simple (Maker ed). I finally noticed a max flow rate setting in KISSlicer. With my hotend at 195C, I turned the flow rate down to 2.75mm/S and completely stopped any jams/skips in the extruder. That effectively limits my print speed to well under 30mm/S (~20?).

A few days ago it hit me: If I turn up the temperature, I bet I can turn up the flow rate and keep the heat from creeping by ramming more (cool) filament through the hotend!

Turned the temperature up to 210 and the flow rate up to 7 the printer is printing much faster (40-50+ mm/S) and no sign of jamming, slipping, skipping extrusion steps!

Since the first layer is printed slow to stick to the bed, I now actually start at 200C, 15mm/S speed for the first layer, then up to 210C and open the print speed wide open - limited by the flow rate.
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Alex Wiebe

Show-n-tell  - 
 
#FrankenBot progress update.

Designing real 3D things from scratch is not easy. My hat's off to +Brook Drumm​ and others who do this for a living.
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James Rivera's profile photoMark Cooper's profile photoBrook Drumm's profile photoGriffin Paquette's profile photo
9 comments
 
Props to you man. Looks like your design is coming along nicely.

My first design was quite a bit of work and is just about to be released. I was going to release it a month ago but once you get it built you keep making changes.
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Alex Wiebe

➥ How-tos & learning  - 
 
Under the learning category, 'cause I'm trying to learn something....

Any one have a link to a datasheet on this ? I'm pretty sure it's an SCR/thyrmistor(?), but not 100% sure. Anyway, my google-powers are failing me - I'm not getting much from the numbers.
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Dave Hodsdon's profile photoAlex Wiebe's profile photoPaul Frederick's profile photo
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+Alex Wiebe
I am thinking that due to process improvements they can offer the same spec device in a smaller package today? Because I saw it was the wrong package. But I could tend to believe the specs. Everything is miniaturized today compared to the caveman stuff.

Either that or they obsoleted this particular device, and just recycled the number for a new one? I've never heard of that happening, but it is possible I suppose. Some engineer somewhere said, close enough. But for me package profile is an important aspect of a device.

A little can is not going to fit where a stud mount came out. Well it will, but it just won't look right.

As much as I like to use salvaged components this is a classic example of when it just isn't worth the research effort. Some parts lost in the sands of time should just stay lost. A modern TO-220 package SCR goes for about a buck. You know what you've got with one of those too.
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Alex Wiebe

Questions/Help  - 
 
While I'm waiting for parts, and the next thing to print, question for you folks who print PLA:

Do you use an oil filter and if so, what kind of oil and how much do you use?

What symptoms are you trying to alleviate with the oil and does it work?
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Nathan Walkner's profile photoGreg Nutt's profile photoAlan Thomason's profile photoJeff DeMaagd's profile photo
11 comments
 
B3 includes a choke shell with a piece of foam inside. I tend to use a small square of paper towel folded several times and gently applied with a clip just to keep dust out of the hot end. I don't use any oil. Also, make sure you're not applying so much pressure at the hobb that you're crushing the filament.
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Alex Wiebe

Show-n-tell  - 
 
D'Oh! Ok, this is getting ridiculous.

I cleaned up the previous mess (https://plus.google.com/u/0/+AlexWiebe/posts/DevnYpENVCY), made sure to turn on (ie: connect) my extra cooling fan and restarted the job.

Came down to find this disaster awaiting me.

So, clearly I need to:

1) Construct a more robust power connector for the cooling fan (follow the red wire on the right to the yellow aligator clip)
2) Snug up/redesign the (green) cooling fan shroud.

Mondays. Ugh.
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Jon Alan's profile photoTim Sills's profile photoNathaniel Stenzel's profile photoAlex Wiebe's profile photo
15 comments
 
Retraction (Prime/Suck in KISSlicer?) is an absolute to have a decent print. I have been using 3mm, but lately, in an effort to shave what few seconds off a print that I can, I've been trying 1.5mm.

I pretty sure the jamming is because:

a) the hotend is old and something is no longer in tolerance inside the top part.
b) I'm running hotter than normal and my cooling system failed.

+Brook Drumm - I'm failing at G+. What's the best way to contact you to send you information...
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Alex Wiebe

Discussion/Stories/Blogs  - 
 
gah! The tags came off this morning! Late night friskies + crouch to get under our bed + hard wood floors + dangling metal tags = no sleep for hoomans.

Our cat is (supposed to be) an indoor cat. But she likes sneaking out. Our city has imposed mandatory licensing last year.

Figured couldn't hurt to register her and put tags on in case she escapes. (Truth is, once she bolts outside, she doesn't go more than 5' before flopping on the pavement and starts gleefully writhing around "I'M FREE!" - silly kitty).

Had the tags since June last year. Got a collar just before winter, and I think she's use to it. Put the tags on last week.

So, our cat is fixed, tattooed, vaccinated and registered. Just, no longer tagged.
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Alex Wiebe's profile photoSirius Lee's profile photo
3 comments
 
+Alex Wiebe as soon as I read your post my thoughts were that this surely must exist
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Alex Wiebe

Questions/Help  - 
 
Here's an example of the blobs Andre is talking about. In this print it occurred in the second last layer, going around the hole.
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Paul Gross's profile photoMark Ellison's profile photoDaniel Jones's profile photoDaniel Bull's profile photo
4 comments
 
I've seen it sometimes with over extrusion. You get a buildup then it breaks loose.
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Alex Wiebe

Show-n-tell  - 
 
I'm confused: is this a custom support fail or win? :-)

Besides the obvious under extrusion issues, I'm at a loss how my custom Simple managed to turn the corner mid-air and not end up printing a loofa.
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Carlton Dodd's profile photoJon Alan's profile photoAlex Wiebe's profile photo
3 comments
 
+Jon Alan​ That would make sense. Looking back at the gcode (Still had the slicer open), there should only have been a 0.29mm gap (didn't realize my model had a gap between the post and corner).
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